Or so Mr. C immediately
dubbed it. As far as I'm concerned the hood is merely an
elaborate collar since I can't imagine that I would ever want to wear it up.
But other than that, Marcy Tilton's modern hoodie has my heart. So
flattering, shaped in front with princess seams while the two-piece
back has a sort of peplum that flows forgivingly over the posterior.
So easy to put together as well, although some precision
top-stitching is required, especially on a solid color fabric, to
make it look its best. And isn't this rose red color lovely...yet
more of my ancient stock of cotton interlock. All these many years
after I bought it, I'm certainly getting my money's worth out of it.
On Pattern Review I
detailed the specific construction changes I made, which mostly
concerned how I finished the various seams, but couldn't post all the
relevant photos there. So here they are.
The pocket. Top-stitching
for the front princess seams was done with the pocket not yet basted
to the side seam, so it could be moved out of the way in order not to
have that extra bulk under the top-stitching. Actually, I just
thought it looked better that way.
Top-stitching on seams
with narrow twin needle.
By trimming the seam
allowance as accurately as possible to a consistent width, the
zig-zag of the twin needle top stitching should come just to the edge
or just barely cover the trimmed seam allowance.
On the front and hood self facings, the edges are simply turned under
and top-stitched twice to replicate the look of the twin-needle
stitching elsewhere. Because the inside of the self-facings can
show, I didn't want the zig-zag stitching on the “wrong” side, so
I stitched twice with a single needle, trying the match the narrow
width of the twin needle.
The hood.
Center back seam, sewn,
pressed open, edges turned under and top-stitched as close as
possible to the edge. And the neckline seam with self-fabric binding.
The — ta da! —
buttonholes. After much experimentation, I managed to sew these by
putting an small extra rectangle of interfacing where each buttonhole
was to be made, and using water-soluble stabilizer on the bottom. If
they hadn't come out right, I'm afraid this garment would have been a
loss, despite all the work I had already put into it. So I certainly
breathed a sigh of relief when the last one emerged from the
buttonhole foot.
The one thing I'm not
crazy about is...the hood. I mean, what is it except an elaborate
collar? And a collar that messes with my hair to boot. I can't
imagine ever actually wearing it up as a hood. If I were to make this
again, I would replace the hood with some other sort of collar. So I
have to say that I love this hoodie despite the fact that it is a
hoodie.
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