I have long had
this 1975 McCall's pattern in my mental queue for a new knit-top
neckline and when I saw this similar Talbots top while out shopping
this spring, I decided the time had come to make it. Talbots calls
their style an “envelope shoulder” tee; the McCall's pattern
differs from it insofar as the front bodice hits about four inches
below the shoulder, but the construction would be the same. As you
can see from my pattern pieces, the back shoulder continues to the
front and the front bodice is simply stitched across. You could
easily create this using your own basic t-shirt pattern and make the
front bodice hit higher or lower depending on how much of the front
shoulder is incorporated with the back.
The straight
edge of the front bodice could lend itself to a variety of
ornamentation. The old McCall's pattern envelope shows a lace band. I
top-stitched with embroidery thread and did the same on the sleeve
hems and bottom hem.
I used the
neckline and shoulders, plus the sleeve cap of the McCall's pattern
with my TNT knit top body. The back neckline stood out a bit from
neck, so I've altered the back slightly, which I hope will fix that. Both of these tops are “muslins,”
so to speak. I've started using a cache of very old knits which I
was intending to take to the thrift store, so I feel liberated when
sewing with them. However, these are keepers. The heathery top with
the three-quarter sleeves is a fairly heavy, not-too-stretchy cotton
knit; I was a little worried that it would be too tight, but I've
worn it several times and found it comfortable.
The top with the
elbow-length sleeves is a very soft interlock. I should have put
some knit interfacing in the hem because it had a tendency to ripple
when I top-stitched it. Aside from that little quibble, I'm totally
satisfied with both of these and intend to use this vintage pattern
again.