Showing posts with label Marcy Tilton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marcy Tilton. Show all posts

Thursday, April 30, 2020

More Marcy Tilton

All dressed up and no place to go, like everyone else during this extraordinary time. But even in normal circumstances, I have more outfits than occasions to wear them. That is due both to the fact that I am not very social, hence the lack of occasions, and to my love of sewing, resulting in the outfit surplus.

Yes, I do love to sew. I love fabric, the luscious colors and tactile textures, the eye-catching patterns and prints. I love spreading my stash out, pairing various pieces, imaging what they might become. Versatile jackets, tops that would go with pants, even dresses which I hardly wear anymore. It's a gorgeously attired fantasy life that I'm envisioning, just waiting for me to sew it into reality. 

And sew it I do. But slowly, and carefully. Which is why my closet can still contain my clothes and why my stash barely seems to diminish. First there's the pairing of pattern and fabric, then refining fit and finessing details. I want to make each and every garment the best I can. I want it to fit and feel and look exactly right, so I'll be happy wearing it.

So even a “wearable muslin” gets meticulous treatment. Which is what this Marcy Tilton top was intended to be: a trial for a rather bold printed knit that had been maturing in my stash for some time. I went to my well of old cotton interlock which has still not run out, and found this not-quite-navy dark blue which I paired with some scraps of a bright leaf green knit for contrast.

I made several changes which you can read about on my review on Pattern Review. It's categorized as Average or, in French, Less Easy, to sew, which rating it earns, in my opinion, due to the squared-off cut of the sleeves where they attach to the body. But I really like the unique look it gives to this top. The other out-of-the-ordinary styling detail is pockets created by a separate lower front piece. I added the buttons and tabs both to keep the pockets from being so floppy and to repeat a touch of the green of the neck band. 

The back is slightly shaped with a casing which I also handled differently than the pattern instructions, inserting a stitched-down band rather than a knotted tie. I think these interesting details show much better in a solid color fabric than in the prints shown on the pattern envelope. So I nixed using my printed knit for it.

Since blue is a color I rarely wear, it turned out that I had no bottoms to pair it with. Even my jeans were the wrong color of blue. So I ended up making a pair of ponte pants using a simple faced-waist pattern (OOP McCall's 5672) that was designed for wovens and omitting the zipper. The ponte is stretchy enough to allow them to be pulled on. And to make sure the waist stayed snug while wearing them, I stitched 3/8-inch clear elastic to the inside of the facing after stitching it to the pants. I copied the pocket from a pair of bought pants.

Now all I have to do is wait for an opportunity to actually wear my new outfit. Sometime when we can all get together in person again. Until then, stay safe, stay home and keep sewing.

Friday, December 8, 2017

Embroidered and beaded version B

Although it took me a while to blog about it, I did get right on to stitching up version B of Marcy Tilton's Vogue 8497.  The shady chartreuse cotton interlock that I picked out of my stash almost matches the garment on the pattern photo.  I hope I'm going to like it as well as I do version A.  There's not too much to add to the info in my last post on that short sleeve top with its zig-zag front and back seams.


Once again, instead of overlapping the curved front and back seams, I turned under the seam allowances on the top pieces and stitched them close to the edge and then again a bit over 3/8 inch away. These seams I embellished with a Double Cretan stitch, using two colors of embroidery floss and accenting that with seed beads in a green-turquoise range. The neckline is also simply bound, as I did on the red version, then embroidered and beaded exactly like the front and back seams.




I hemmed the sleeves and the bottom with a double needle.  On the sleeve hems I worked the straight version of the Zigzag Chain Stitch that I used on the neckline of the red top.  I used two strands of embroidery floss in the two different colors of the other embroidery and put a seed bead in each stitch. 

I used the size 12, but did stitch the side seams with a ½ inch seam allowance, rather than 5/8 inch.  One thing to note in construction is to make sure the front and back seams meet precisely at the shoulders, and that the uneven hems meet at the correct place.  There must have been a small amount of stretching or distortion when I cut out the garment, and if I hadn't been careful about matching these up, they would have been off just enough to cause a problem.  Also I used a narrow fusible bias stay tape on the neckline edge which had stretched while I was doing the embroidery and beading. 


















 
  
I found that the embroidery and beading went fairly fast, as I sat at my sewing table listening to The Color of Lightning by Paulette Jiles.  (IMO, audio books are one of the best things that ever happened where sewing is concerned.)  Now I've started on something more pedestrian, some olive-y denim pants that I know will be a welcome addition to my wardrobe.  But not as rewarding as making this fun top.